Ryujin Onsen Kamigoten

Kamigoten Ryokan was founded in 1657 to serve Yorinobu Tokugawa, the feudal lord of Kinokuki and part of the ruling Tokugawa shogunate. The name Kamigoten is a reference to this through the term, meaning ‘royal palace.’ But its roots stretch even further back to the 7th century, with the Ryujin Onsen having been discovered by En no Gyoja, leading to the broader area being developed as a resort town, which would later spur the establishment of the ryokan itself. The ownership of the ryokan is similarly long-lived, having been owned by the Genji aristocratic family continuously for more than 820 years.

This legacy lives on also inside the ryokan, which has hot baths that feature the therapeutic waters of the local hot springs, capitalizing on its proximity to the Hidaka River. Visitors today can also share a similar experience to the old lord Yorinobu as the ryokan has also preserved his room over the years, with visitors being able to sleep in that same room amidst other adorning historical artifacts. Another important visitor of the ryokan was the 20th-century Japanese writer Ariyoshi Sawako, who visited regularly and took particular interest in the hot baths. Eventually, in 1999, the Japanese government would recognize the ryokan as a Tangible Cultural Asset, acknowledging its historical significance. Its continuing 400-year legacy reflects more broadly its merits as an institution and its contributions to the community.

Kamigoten Ryokan is an ideal example of Edo-period traditional Japanese architecture in the sukiya-zukuri style, especially of buildings made for high-ranking members of society, such as the Tokugawas for whom the property was built. Primarily wooden, but with tiled roofs, tatami mats, shoji screen doors, and various decorative indoor flowers. The ryokan blends naturally with the river and garden behind it, allowing guests to enjoy the view from their windows.

Inside the ryokan, an elegant and authentic aesthetic is maintained, with rooms and furniture being largely made up of wood. The conventional Japanese minimalist arrangement is maintained throughout the ryokan, with rooms using seiza and zaisu seats and chabudai tables. For those more historically minded, they could also choose to stay at the old room in which old lord Yorinobu had stayed as well, with the room carefully maintained in the same design and furniture that he used himself.

With its location deep in the mountainous interior of Wakayama, the culinary experiences at the Kamigoten Ryokan heavily feature local seasonal ingredients that highlight what the area has to offer. The kaiseki experience makes use of Japanese staples like fish from Ryujin’s rivers, fresh vegetables, and various meats. The ryokan offers guests both breakfast and dinner meals, depending on the nature of their reservation, and can be served in its communal dining halls.

Among the examples of dishes that visitors can expect to dine on are 5 seasonal appetizers, a small dish made up of pickled wasabi leaves, and a vinegared dish of curly konnyaku. Non-meat and vegetable dishes include handmade sesame tofu, Japanese knotweed with sesame dressing, pickles, beans, wild yam, and other seasonal vegetables. Those who like seafood can enjoy salt-grilled river fish, while those who wish to eat meat can enjoy venison steak, Kumano beef, or peony or kishu chicken.

One of the key features of Kamigoten Ryokan is the Ryujin Onsen, which was one of the main justifications for its own foundation. The onsen is well-known throughout Japan for being one of the three best onsen in the country.

For visitors who wish to explore the area further, there are many locales for people to discover, including the Ryujinmura Dragon Museum, housing 183 artworks related to dragons. Perhaps the most interesting place in the area is the Kumano Kodo, a World Heritage Site. The Kumano Kodo is a series of pilgrimage routes through the area that lead all kinds of pilgrims seeking spiritual enlightenment and physical healing to the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano: the Kumano Hongu Taisha, the Kumano Nachi Taisha, and the Kumano Hayatama Taisha. About a dozen different routes exist, with more than half being traversable whether on foot or by vehicles, with some routes overlapping and sharing space with national roads.